Description
The new Grand Seiko SBGW305 finally offers the charming “grains of rice” bracelet outside Japan! An iconic model with an elegant, versatile design.The originsIn 2001, three years after the release of the first mechanical 9S caliber, Grand Seiko unveiled the first generation of hand-wound 9S movements. From an initial 50 hours, the power reserve reached 72 hours in 2011 with the 9S64 caliber. This three-hand movement quickly established itself as a classic in the collection, its relatively small proportions enabling the design of elegant timepieces.So the first “basic model” of this watch (a classically styled round manual wristwatch with an ivory dial) has been part of the Grand Seiko range since the launch of the manual-winding range. At the time, its designers drew inspiration from the Grand Seiko First to create a new design, never intending to recreate the original watch exactly. The same year also saw the birth of the SBGW004, which was a recreation of the classic 3180. Nevertheless, the SBGW001, and now the SBGW301, retain the essential qualities that made the 1960 original so compelling. The SBGW305, meanwhile, features a silver dial and elegant multi-row bracelet.Vintage inspirationThe SBGW305 takes up the codes of the timeless 37.3 mm design of the Elegance collection. A modern inspiration on the design of Grand Seiko’s iconic “First” model, the watch is compact and elegant. Above this case is a domed box-shaped sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating.Grand Seiko is an expert in dial manufacture, and this SBGW305 reference proves it once again. Typical of Japanese production, the face of this watch expresses itself through a pure domed dial, focused on its color and finish, lightly sunrayed, with no date or mention. The dial’s metallic silver tone echoes the polished Zaratsu case itself. As every insider knows, behind every Grand Seiko watch, there’s always attention to detail, and this is reflected here in the delicately curved hands that follow the contours of the dial perfectly and offer the best possible legibility. Surgically finished, the indexes, like the GS logo, are finely executed faceted and applied, to contribute to very pleasant daytime legibility.This timepiece is mounted on a matching 5-link stainless steel bracelet with a unique rice-grain structure, designed for wrist comfort, and featuring a folding clasp with push-button opening.Mechanical sideBehind its sapphire caseback is the Manufacture caliber 9S64. This is one of the lion brand’s rare hand-wound mechanical movements. Offering a comfortable power reserve of around three days (72 hours) when fully wound, it aims to be stable and precise. As Grand Seiko’s chronometric standards are stricter than those of the COSC, the movement has been set to 6 positions, guaranteeing a precision of -3 to +5 seconds per day, with a balance beating at 28,800 vibrations per hour. What’s more, to prevent damage to the mainspring due to excessive winding, this hand-wound caliber benefits from a special sliding-flange structure.This movement is hand-assembled by the craftsmen of the Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi.By choosing to equip this watch with a mechanical caliber, the watch is thus very slim (11.7 mm), and lets us admire these “Côtes de Tokyo” decorated bridges, offering many light play effects.
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